Discover
Changuinola, Panamá: The Surprisingly Cosmopolitan
Live-And-Let-Live "Heart" Of Bocas del Toro, Province
With A Unique "Sunny" Beat That's Pure Caribbean!
Changuinola, Bocas del Toro
Province, Panamá is as about as "improbable" a city as I have ever
visited. Period! One doesn't expect to encounter an elevated civilised
populace in the middle of a 250,000 acre Chiquita banana plantation, but elevated &
decidedly Bohemian it is! Oh, its streets could use a new paving badly; there is
hardly any street lighting (that works), to illumine your path at night; after a rain
(which occurs just about daily), you must walk around puddles the size of small lakes, and
the somewhat tacky façades of the many almacens (general merchandise stores) are
barely more than cleverly painted tin panels...but you can find ANY kind of item that you
could ever possibly want to buy on Avenida 17 de Abril (often for a dollar an item, or
even less!); some of the most delicious (inexpensive), and well-prepared foods you will
ever eat at its dozens of "mom & pop"
restaurantes and cafés; and
any number of clean, air conditioned hotel rooms for $35.00 or less complete with
CATV!
One can summarise Changuinola with the following description: this city is NOT
even close to a quintessential Caribbean resort community, complete with the typical
Mediterranean-inspired roof tiles everywhere along with the all too familiar island style
washed sherbet-coloured stucco homes and "shopping centres!" No,
Changuinola IS real...with some visual flaws, taxis going "beep-beep," delicious
food and happy, industrious people! I like this city very much; it's very much alive
without any help from the Panamanian government, over 250 miles away, and without any help
from its corporate "partner," Chiquita Brands International: (Bocas Fruit
Company Division). I've always said that all this city needs is a good coat of
paint, better street lights (to enhance the enjoyment of the often alfresco &
impromptu street entertainment!) and some planter boxes filled with any number of tropical
plants that could easily thrive in this botanical paradise. By the way, the climate
is spectacular here: rarely over 85 degrees F., and never under 65 degrees F. The
evenings are ALWAYS coolish and perfect for a brisk stroll to the grocery, internet café,
or taverna.
Changuinola's 50,000 plus population could be
ethnically Jamaican, Chinese, Mestizo: Native Indian, Trinidadian, Castillian, Syrian,
and, of course, Gringo, too. Its citizens are a happy blend of many or all of these
aforementioned groups. Their "collective" working language is Spanish but
one can also readily hear English (with a very pleasing West Indian patois lilt),
various Native American Indian dialects, Arabic, and Chinese!! Bananas brought all
these peoples, their languages, their toothsome foods, and indigenous cultures,
together. The city "works" so well because being different here is
something that is embraced, not feared, loathed, and scorned. The same warm smile
and handshake is offered both the newcomer and friend alike. Since Brad & I live
in Florida, where ethnic tensions usually run high, it is delightful to see that this
rather complex juxtaposition of human beings has no noticeable negative effects on
peoples' dispositions! What a refreshing, successful human societal
"experiment" unfolds on a daily basis, here in "The Banana City":
Changuinola, Bocas del Toro, Republica de Panamá.
At any one time, in Changuinola
and its out-lying environs, you are likely to spot a hoard or two of pale-faced, mainly
European or Nord Americano touristas taking full advantage of the area's National
Parks and all-around-you natural beauty! They often stop downtown to have a comida
typica, a pizza, a great "gourmet" Chinese-Caribbean meal, and/or of
course, a cervesa or three! You will possibly hear them complain about the
lack of air conditioning in the open air markets and restaurants, the laid-back
(distinctly Caribbean) "speed" of the locals, and the frequent but usually brief
rain showers that drift in from either the 10,000 ft. mountains to the west or on the
Easterly tradewinds, but they rarely complain about the price that they will pay for that
arriving pile of excellent, regionally-unique food, or most certainly, the taste of a
refreshing, ice-cold Balboa® cervesa, at about 90 cents each! Remember,
Changuinola is NOT a resort town. But any tourist would certainly find it
multi-faceted and interesting, if they can look beneath its "rough exterior!"
Did I already mention that I like this city?
I guess that I did! There is one more thing that I would like to convey,
readers. I mentioned earlier in this somewhat "cheerleading" &
passionate article focusing on Changuinola, Bocas del Toro, Panamá that this community
survives, no, it thrives, without "outside help." That is very true.
I also came to my own personal conclusion that to enhance its attractiveness and
increase its already great civic pride, all it really needs is paint, tropical street
trees, a fresh coat of asphalt on its roads, and attractive night lighting to welcome its
citizenry and visitors to frequent evening band concerts and spur of the moment
festivals...And Chiquita's money can make that difference towards enhancing downtown
Changuinola's "Quality of Life!" I have already voiced this opinion, in
June, 2003, via e-mail to Chiquita Brands International's Corporate Offices, in
Cincinnati, Ohio. The e-mail was eventually acknowledged "politely" but
I've heard nothing from them since that "correct" salutatory response.
The Chiquita Brands International is
Changuinola's citizens' "life blood" for their income, families' welfare, and
their substantial sense of community pride. Chiquita employs the vast majority of
this area's citizens, and as is the case in most agricultural work, pay is on the low
side. Work in a banana plantation is not easy, and its rewards are few. I feel
very strongly that Chiquita should give back more to say: "thank you,
Changuinola!" Blue and yellow street lamps and trash receptacles? Perhaps
attractive planter boxes lining the sidewalks filled with bananas, palms, heliconias, and
cannas!
Chiquita has the considerable financial
resources that could make Changuinola a better place to live, or visit. Panamá's
government does not have "deep pockets", and even if it did, Changuinola, Bocas
del Toro is so distant from Panamá City geographically, that it is often a last choice
for proposed government subsidised regional capital improvements. After
eight
extended visits, I've come to believe that the Changuinola area deserves far better
husbandry. It can easily become a progressive bellwether region to be admired by
other municipalities in Panama, and in communities large and small throughout the rest of
Central America! Clearly, Changuinola has what it takes to be a vital & pleasant
urban environment. Right now, it requires capital improvements for its
hard-working citizenry. With its strong local presence, Chiquita Brands
International has the kind of capital, and responsibility to make these improvements a
reality.
Help Changuinola, Bocas del Toro Province,
Panamá prosper, readers! Write, call or e-mail Chiquita Brands Corporation to let
them know that you support the concept of corporate responsibility. Several
thousands of dollars are all that would be initially required...not millions! The
only thing that would be "in the millions" would be the many more smiles beaming
from Changuinolans as they express their civic pride and improved
lifestyle...exponentially!
|
Jan |
Feb |
Mar |
Apr |
May |
Jun |
Jul |
Aug |
Sep |
Oct |
Nov |
Dec |
Year
|
°C |
25.6 |
25.7 |
25.9 |
26.2 |
26.5 |
26.6 |
26.3 |
26.5 |
26.7 |
26.4 |
26.0 |
25.7 |
26.2
|
°F |
78.1 |
78.3 |
78.6 |
79.2 |
79.7 |
79.9 |
79.3 |
79.7 |
80.1 |
79.5 |
78.8 |
78.3 |
79.2
|
|
Jan |
Feb |
Mar |
Apr |
May |
Jun |
Jul |
Aug |
Sep |
Oct |
Nov |
Dec |
Year
|
mm |
225.3 |
156.6 |
167.7 |
229.4 |
256.4 |
181.8 |
265.6 |
207.4 |
119.6 |
142.7 |
266.1 |
336.4 |
2555.9
|
inches |
8.9 |
6.2 |
6.6 |
9.0 |
10.1 |
7.2 |
10.5 |
8.2 |
4.7 |
5.6 |
10.5 |
13.2 |
100.6
|
Source: CHANGUINOLA data derived from GHCN 1. 115 months between 1961
and 1970
THIS OPINIONS EXPRESSED IN THIS
ARTICLE ARE THE OPINIONS OF
PAUL @ TROPICRIVERWOODS, S.A.
I always appreciate any comments and/or additional suggestions from the reading
audience
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